Rust Tales
Collected by Fred Hopengarten, K1VR
Copyright 2008
Tue, 04 Dec 2001 08:25:28 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 05:24:57 -0800 (PST)
From: GALE STEWARD <k3nd@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Looking for Ideas for Preserving Tower Legs
To: towertalk reflector <towertalk@contesting.com>
Go to: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com
They sell a product called CORROLESS RUST STABILIZER. I've used this
product in some muscle car restoration projects as well as some tower/hardware
repairs. This stuff is simply painted or
sprayed on the affected rust area. It can then be painted over or left "as
is". I've never seen anything I've treated show any signs of rusting
again, even years later. This is the same
stuff developed and used on offshore oil rigs. It's available in brush-on form
or also in spray cans.
--Stew K3ND
--- W9zr@aol.com wrote:
>
> I am running into a problem with my tower legs starting to rust
and I am
> looking for some ideas.
>
> Background:
>
> When I installed an 80 foot Rohn 45 tower 8 years ago I
anticipated moving within 4 or 5 years.
I installed it in 1 yard of concrete and left the top of the concrete 6
inches below grade and filled in dirt on top of the concrete. I did this so that when I moved I did not
have to deal with the buyer’s probable complaint of a concrete pad in the
backyard. In the past I would just cut
off the legs and backfill dirt and nobody knew it was there. I realized then
that if I did not move in 5 years I would have to do something to prevent the
tower legs from rusting as they would be in contact with the moist soil. BTW I did use sand and pea gravel at the
bottom of the legs for proper internal drainage.
>
> 8 years have passed and it looks like I am not moving anytime
soon. So much for the best laid
plans. As a result I removed some dirt
and closely inspected the tower legs and, while the galvanizing is gone, they
appear to be solid but certainly have a fair amount of surface rust as you
would expect.
>
> My initial thought was to sand and paint the legs and then pour a
concrete cap to a level approx 6 inch above grade.
>
> Another thought was to sand and paint the legs and then coat them
with 2 part epoxy. After that I could
wrap a layer of rubber self vulcanizing tape and then vinyl tape similar to we
do for leak proof coax connections. With this setup could I just backfill the
dirt and forget about the concrete?
>
> This is new territory for me but I bet someone out there in Towertalk
land has had this problem and come up with a good solution. I am all ears!!
>
> Randy
FH note See http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/rustbullet.html
[FH sent W9ZR a note asking what he did eventually. Here's the answer.]
Hi Fred
I got lots of advice as you can imagine.
What I decided to do was to dig down about 12 inches to the top of the
concrete and expose all of the legs above the concrete so that I could sand
them real well. Then I used some hi tech
paint that a guy recommended...it is meant for car frames...I will see if I can
dig up the maker of it. Then I made a
form and poured concrete around the legs to 6 inches above grade. I thinned the concrete just a bit to make
sure that it bonded with the top of the old concrete ... strength was not the
issue. BTW my Rohn 45 legs were in great
shape after I sanded them to bare metal so I did not have to reinforce them.
This all took many hours!
73 Randy
[FH inquired as to what was the product used. Was it the stuff
mentioned above, by Eastwood?]
From: W9zr@aol.com
To: k1vr
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 21:11:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Rust
Hi Fred
That is the stuff. Nr
1600Z. Made by Eastwood. It seemed to work great.
73 Randy
From: K4RO Kirk Pickering <k4ro@k4ro.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:56:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TowerTalk] Extend Rust Treatment
Several folks asked about a product called "Extend" that I
wrote about recently on here. I didn't
save all of the queries, but several said they couldn't find it. I found it at Home Depot. Here is the info from a jar I have on hand.
Extend - Destroys Rust
RTS-8 Item No. 81138
Loctite Corp
North American Group
Rocky
From: Eric Gustafson <n7cl@mmsi.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com, hartley@smart.net
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 09:54:10 -0700
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] More STOPPING RUST
One caveat for use of this stuff to prevent rusting of tower and guy
components is that it is UV sensitive.
So it should probably be overpainted with a fairly opaque paint after
application.
-- Eric N7CL
>Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:58:07 -0500
>From: Chuck Hartley <hartley@smart.net>
>
>Just thought I'd add another source of rust restoration /
>prevention products. Like
several others, I know of it from the
>automotive repair application.
>
>
>-- Chuck / KM3V
From: K4RO Kirk Pickering <k4ro@k4ro.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 11:04:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] STOPPING
RUST
I used a product called "Extend" that was available at Home
Depot. I'm really not sure what it does
exactly, but it seems to turn surface rust into a very durable finish.
I had some surface rust on the bottom of my tower legs and applied this
stuff. There are no signs of any further
rusting, after about 5 years so far. My
tower base is in concrete, but was not properly "domed," so dirt and
water collect at the base.
I worried about the legs rusting out, but I don't see any further signs
since applying the Extend. There may be
other similar products under a different name.
-Kirk K4RO
From: GALE STEWARD <k3nd@yahoo.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 07:43:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] STOPPING
RUST
The URL for Eastwood Co. is: www.eastwoodco.com
Once you are at the website, type "Corroless" in the search
window and it will take you to the correct page.
--Stew K3ND
From: K7LXC@aol.com
To: n4kg@juno.com, TOWERTALK@contesting.com
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:47:48 EST
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] STOPPING
RUST
In a message dated 99-11-17 07:24:02 EST, n4kg@juno.com writes:
> Given the onset of surface rust, what means are available
> to stop or neutralize
further deterioration of the metal?
> In addition to cold
galvanizing, are there other alternatives
> to apply following
neutralization?
Sure. One is to use a product
such as Rustoleum Rust Converter. Its application will neutralize further
oxidation and forms a tough coating. I don't remember any additional specifics
but the TowerTalk archives (www.contesting.com)
may be helpful. This product is available at Home Depot
among others.
The other thing you can do
is to apply an industrial coating. This is done on commercial towers out in the
field where it's not possible to re-galvanize them. Call an industrial coating supplier
in the yellow pages and talk to them. There are epoxies available along with
other types.
In any case, surface preparation
is the key. There are standards for surface prep (again, check the archives)
that you can obtain if you're really serious. Either of these will add years of
life to your steel tower structures.
--Steve K7LXC, Tower Tech
From: GALE STEWARD <k3nd@yahoo.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 05:26:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] STOPPING
RUST
There is a product that I have used in the classic car restoration
area. It is a paint type product called CORROLESS
sold by the Eastwood Corp. They sell
auto restoration tools and supplies.
Don't have a catalog handy but they do have a web site. This is applied directly over rusty metal
after wirebrushing to remove any loose flakes.
It neutralizes the rust and seals against air and moisture
infiltration. Once its dry, it can be
painted over. It's apparently the same stuff
they use on the offshore drilling rigs.
I've never used it on tower sections but works great on old muscle cars!
-- Stew K3ND
> OK, I guess my request for information on TOWER Longevitity touched
the deep dark secrets nobody wants to talk about since there were only two private
(and very interesting) responses.
>
> Let me ask another question:
>
> Given the onset of surface rust, what means are available to stop
or neutralize further deterioration of the metal? In addition to cold
galvanizing, are there other alternatives to apply following neutralization?
>
> de Tom N4KG
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